Rovinj, a Beautiful and Enchanting Fishing Port

A quick three or so hour drive from Venice, this beautiful city has been an important fishing village since between the 3rd and 5th century. Originally an island, it was connected to the mainland in 1763. The pedestrian-only (our favorite kind!) walled old town still exists on the peninsula that was created, and it was here that we spent most of our time.

Sunset on our first nightAlthough not typical for us, we chose to stay at the Hotel Adriatic - partly because we had originally planned to take the ferry from Venice and would arrive late in the evening (we ended up renting a car) - mostly because of its perfect location, with an amazing view of the harbor - and finally because I found a great deal at 50% off (about $65/night), which is the kind of thing you come across traveling off season and with research time on your hands. The hotel was fine and comfortable, but the interior renovation job is very austere compared to its historical and beautiful facade. Breakfast (included) was a wonderful buffet, complete with Western luxuries that are rare in Europe - eggs and ham to order.

We spent our days exploring the old streets and marveling at the marble stones and the architecture. Dinner the first night was at Veli Joze. This quaint and comfortable place is full of tchotkes. We have seafood risotto, fuzi (a pasta shape we are quick to discover is ubiquitous in Istria) with a meat ragu and grilled stuffed squid. It's sublime. After dinner we discover the local grappa two ways (with herbs and with honey) at a lively little bar in a tiny square.

The next day we wake to an absolutely perfect and glorious day. It's about 80, clear and calm. We've been eyeing a nice-looking tour boat in the harbor, and while we usually don't do these tourist-kind of things it is just too beautiful a day to stay off the water.

The Delfin from the Pirate's CaveWe negotiate a 6-hour excursion on the Delfin that will take us around the local islands and up the Lim Fjord complete with a fish "picnic" and all-you-can-drink wine and grappa for about $100. There are only about six other people on the large boat, so we feel like we have it to ourselves. The Delfin staff guys are a fun bunch - playing super-cheesy American classic rock and keeping our cups full. In the Fjord we stop off at the "Pirate's Cave" for a little exploration. It's a blissful, relaxing day.

That evening we find Giannino, an Italian place in the old town. We started with a fish carpaccio, which just melted in our mouths and was so fresh and awesome. Another dish of grilled squid (we love the stuff) and herbed noodles with mushrooms and shrimp. We have our first experience of Istrians offering us local grappa gratis (this would happen a lot, we find). This one is dark, sweet and strong - similar to Yagermeister.

Everyone here is quickly speaking English to us so it's pretty easy to communicate so far. One thing we immediately notice is that most of the tourists (which there are a fair number given that it's off-season) are Germans. A few Italians, a few Brits. No Americans. Interesting...