An Agrotourism Experience and Speaking Croatian
Agritourism DOL - The view from our terraceOne thing that we try to do when we travel is to stay with local people so we can learn more about their culture and way of life. Given our interest in food and wine, agritourism is a great way to go. Istria has been building up and promoting this way of travel for a while. This website was particularly helpful as it listed many different opportunities. Since I was hoping to explore all areas of this region, I ended up finding a place through the Central Istria tourism office in Pazin. Agritourism DOL in Gologorički dol looked fantastic online and for about $50 per night sounded perfect.
The dining room, set for a big partyThis large family has been in this location for centuries. They make their own prsut (Istrian proscuitto), cheese, wine, grappa and olive oil and have cattle, horses, pigs, chickens, donkeys, rabbits and doves on the farm in a beautiful, quiet valley.
After a welcome quartino (quarter of a litre) wine, we get settled into our room, which is small but pleasant, has a small terrace with a great view of the valley and farm and a teeny tiny little private bathroom.
We head downstairs to the quaint restaurant for dinner. Most of the agritourism places have these somewhere on their property (often in their lower levels) and are usually open to the public with reservations. A very large table is set for about 30, so we wonder what is going on. We are sat at a comfy small table next to a cozy fireplace.
Up until now, since we've been in high tourist areas, we haven't really needed to speak Croatian. Depite the fact that everyone immediately thinks we're German (did I mention how many German tourists there were?), once they find out we're American (and usually surprised at that), people have been generous about helping us by speaking a bit of English, or a mix of that and Italian, which we're a little more experienced with, and which is pretty common in the coastal and northern regions.
Here our hostess does not speak English and despite her gracious attempts we are having more difficulty communicating. I was hoping to learn to cook the local specialties (as described on the website) or find out more about the farm and its workings and products. But we are hampered by the language and I'm a bit disappointed that we are unable to make more of this opportunity. We have been studying our Croatian phrase book and practicing on the plane and in the car but it's just not the same as speaking it in the environment. So we try to make the pleasantries at least and this is met with appreciation.
Her daughter does speak English and she serves our dinner and talks with us this evening. I have brought some of my fig ginger bourbon jam to share as a gift with our hosts and present it to her. She brings out an amazing and comforting chicken soup. The broth is so clear and light, and it's filled with fine egg noodles. Home cooking at its best!
The large party is starting to gather and we are trying to figure out what is going on. There is a priest (apparently from town), gifts, and merriment. And lots of grappa! We greet them with dobra večer (good evening) as they arrive.
Our second course comes out. It is homemade gnocchi, fuzi and ravioli stuffed with their cheese. And delicious chicken ragu to top it all. They share grappa with us (again, gratis) after dinner. It is strong and we're amazed that the group (including the priest!) is drinking so much of it. As we drift off to sleep upstairs we hear the group singing Amazing Grace. How soothing.
Breakfasts in the morning are simple (as most European breakfasts are), with bread, cheese, preserves and prsut - all homemade and all delicious. As we check out after our second night, she gives me a small version of the wine vase you see in the photo above as a thank you gift. It's sweet and most appreciated!
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Reader Comments (3)
Hi Tanya, What an amazing trip! I am curious, did you ever find out what the party at the farm was for? Luanne
Thanks for reading! We didn't figure out the party, but Matt's best guess was they were welcoming the new priest to the parish. :-)
Hi, this place looks really amazing! We're planning a trip to Istria in September and your website has given us some really good ideas. I tried to book the agrotourism DOL both through the tourist board website, and directly with DOL itself through their email address, but neither has responded. Did you happen to have any problems trying to book this? Just curious.